Wednesday, October 21, 2015
Ready ... set ... go!
OCT 20
Another day, bustling from dawn ‘til dusk with activity. Although here in Gibraltar, dawn comes late: the sun doesn’t rise until 8:30 am ... and our days extend well past dusk. We are up to our eyebrows in chores, getting ready for the passage to the Canaries (4 ½ days) and Cape Verde (5-6 days) and ultimately El Gato’s 2-week voyage to St Lucia. It’s fairly overwhelming – however we are ticking off tasks.
But today, as the rain FINALLY stopped and clouds FINALLY cleared, we decided to drop our chores and bolt for Gibraltar, and the cable car ride to the top of The Rock, where the monkeys live.
The bus system failed us, so we walked to the cable car station – with an hour or so to spare before it closed. We took the tram up and were deposited in the rubble and ruins of the old fortress, where the Barbary Macaques live. They are fairly friendly – we were warned they will steal hats, sunglasses, and anything plastic-wrapped (which they associate with food) – but I, having had dodgy monkey experiences in South Africa, kept my distance. Instead, I awed at the mystery of the strait of Gibraltar spread before us. The high, snow-covered (already!) mountains of Spain to the east; the lure of Africa to the south; the stretch of Atlantic to the west ...
OCT 21 2pm – leaving within the hour!
Tuesday, October 20, 2015
Monsoon season in Gibraltar
It is monsoon season in Gibraltar, raining three solid days now,
sequestering us aboard El Gato in Marina Alcaidesa on the Spanish
side.
Our first day here, during a respite in the rain (or what we thought
was a respite), we walked to the border and over to Gibraltar –
crossing the LIVE runway of the airport that lies between us and The
Rock. No-one even asked to see our passports as we entered this small
British enclave – greeted by a typical red phone booth, flowers, and
finally signs in a familiar language.
The area is steeped in history: at the bottom of Europe, across the
strait from Africa, at the cusp of the Atlantic and the 'New World.'
We wandered the streets (thankfully most shops were closed, being
Sunday, or Annie and I probably would have bought everything in sight)
until another downpour began, and we popped into a pub for Pimms, (us
girls) and a Crabbys Ginger Beer for Eric; who added a shot of rum to
make a Dark and Stormy, which the bartender had never heard of. But
he encouraged us to take the bus to Punta Europa, and so we scurried
out before the next squall.
From the point (which was much more impressive from sea!) we followed
a trail up a hill, through a tunnel, around winding streets ... I love
to think of what went on in these places and homes years ago, how
people lived then, and even now – so very different from my existence
in Santa Barbara. I would love to live here for three months. I would
love to live ANYWHERE for three months, lol!
We came upon a waterfall, along a deserted beach club (considering the
cold weather, I declined to jump in – and so cannot say I've been IN
the Med, only on it) and then to a skinny dark tunnel, which we
thought was the end of the road. But no cars were coming, so we
sneaked through and continued, now in a residential area, lined with
honeysuckle and tulip trees, and finally, as the sprinkles began
again, jumped on a bus to the downtown market area of Gibraltar.
From there it was another 20 minutes walk back to the marina, in the
pouring rain. We were like drowned rats, and have remained so for the
last two days. The weather promises to clear later today ... we hope
to tick off some more chores (and go see the Gibraltar monkeys!).
That's it for an update. Tonight Kim returns with our FULL tank of
cooking fuel (we will repay him in dinner and wine) and then I'll make
a few more meals to freeze, while Annie and Eric wrap up their tasks,
and hopefully set sail in the evening, or Thursday morning. Check our
our track at: http://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/ElGato
Monday, October 19, 2015
a few photos from the Cartagena to Gibraltar leg
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| show off dolphin |
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| view out my 'bedroom' window |
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| friendly pilot whales |
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| self-portrait at dawn |
The Constant Company of Dolphins
My first overnight passage on El Gato. Annie and Eric are very safety
conscious and I am pleased – harnesses, tethers, jacklines, beacons,
strobes, AIS, we have it all – particularly as the wind pipes up at
night, as I'm on watch with Annie. She keeps the big cat in line.
For my first night, I do a swing shift (Eric quips, 'Let's not do a
Bob H****') and spend half a watch with each of them, to get
acquainted with the boat and practices. But pre-dawn, with both of
them exhausted, I graduate to my own watch – and observe once again
the sun rising over the bulbous head of Africa. And then I toss out
the fishing lines, make some breakfast, and start the day.
In the dark hours, Eric and I had talked about past experiences,
compared notes, and spoke about the wonders you see when you're at
sea. Brilliant meteor showers. The clarity of the stars. The ocean
terrain; churning with life. Solitude. Bioluminescence. The constant
company of dolphins.
Night turns to day turns to evening, and we press toward Gibraltar. A
friendly pod of pilot whales visits. Annie catches a tuna. But the
wind directions, current and rain squalls do not cooperate, and our
ETA pushes back, so we approach at nightfall.
But the setting is spectacular. The famed Rock of Gibraltar is
shrouded in clouds, illumined with bursts of lightening. Rounding
Punta Europa is dramatic, and we weave our way through scores of
anchored ships and yachts. Finally we dock, with The Rock to our
stern. Dinner. Gin and Tonics. Talk of a job well done, and more to
come. It has been an incredible 'birthday weekend.' Annie has declared
tomorrow – Sunday – a holiday: we will explore.
UPDATE - wifi and computer technicalities have me a bit behind on
posts but all is well. RAINING CATS & DOGs - haven't seen the monkeys
yet - The Rock of Gibraltar is mostly shrouded with clouds. Hoping for
clearing Wed-Thurs, on to Gran Canaria then!
conscious and I am pleased – harnesses, tethers, jacklines, beacons,
strobes, AIS, we have it all – particularly as the wind pipes up at
night, as I'm on watch with Annie. She keeps the big cat in line.
For my first night, I do a swing shift (Eric quips, 'Let's not do a
Bob H****') and spend half a watch with each of them, to get
acquainted with the boat and practices. But pre-dawn, with both of
them exhausted, I graduate to my own watch – and observe once again
the sun rising over the bulbous head of Africa. And then I toss out
the fishing lines, make some breakfast, and start the day.
In the dark hours, Eric and I had talked about past experiences,
compared notes, and spoke about the wonders you see when you're at
sea. Brilliant meteor showers. The clarity of the stars. The ocean
terrain; churning with life. Solitude. Bioluminescence. The constant
company of dolphins.
Night turns to day turns to evening, and we press toward Gibraltar. A
friendly pod of pilot whales visits. Annie catches a tuna. But the
wind directions, current and rain squalls do not cooperate, and our
ETA pushes back, so we approach at nightfall.
But the setting is spectacular. The famed Rock of Gibraltar is
shrouded in clouds, illumined with bursts of lightening. Rounding
Punta Europa is dramatic, and we weave our way through scores of
anchored ships and yachts. Finally we dock, with The Rock to our
stern. Dinner. Gin and Tonics. Talk of a job well done, and more to
come. It has been an incredible 'birthday weekend.' Annie has declared
tomorrow – Sunday – a holiday: we will explore.
UPDATE - wifi and computer technicalities have me a bit behind on
posts but all is well. RAINING CATS & DOGs - haven't seen the monkeys
yet - The Rock of Gibraltar is mostly shrouded with clouds. Hoping for
clearing Wed-Thurs, on to Gran Canaria then!
Sunrise over Algiers
16 October 2015
On the morning of my 57th birthday, I watched the sun rise over Algiers: a dazzling sliver of fuchsia – like the iridescent breast of a hummingbird – peeking through the irregular mountains of North Africa, shooting peachy hues onto the cliffs of Cabo Tinoso.
We had set off before dawn, from the ancient Roman city of Cartagena, now a small but polished tourist spot; where fisherman, vacationers and cruisers, like us, converge on shimmering marble streets lined with gucci shops and bistros.
The Mediterranean air was cool, and the hills of Cartagena shrouded in clouds, as we set off. In time, the land features faded into the mist. The setting was non-descript: we could have been anywhere in the world. And I have been. Tahiti, France, Argentina, Hawaii, El Salvador, Scotland, South Africa, Thailand, Tierra del Fuego ... the list goes on. I’ve traveled to a mind-boggling number of incredible places – not, perhaps, the life I planned, but the life that has unfolded before me, for which I am thankful.
AFTERNOON
The day progressed beautifully. After lunch and birthday cake – a chocolate tart – I napped on the trampoline in the emerging sun. I showered. I caught a fish – a smallish dorado, just the right size for dinner. Dolphins appeared, and we ran forward to watch the display, sitting at the bow in the afternoon sun; the boat scooting along at 9knots; the small pod of common dolphin racing our amas (they won) with one particular show-off jettisoning out of the water, landing sideways with a splash, over and over again.
The day progressed beautifully. After lunch and birthday cake – a chocolate tart – I napped on the trampoline in the emerging sun. I showered. I caught a fish – a smallish dorado, just the right size for dinner. Dolphins appeared, and we ran forward to watch the display, sitting at the bow in the afternoon sun; the boat scooting along at 9knots; the small pod of common dolphin racing our amas (they won) with one particular show-off jettisoning out of the water, landing sideways with a splash, over and over again.
I told Annie the only thing that could possibly make it better would be if a Navy Seal parachuted onboard with a case of chilled Veuve Cliquot. Naked. But all told I think it’s a pretty memorable day.
Thursday, October 15, 2015
A few photos from today
(mostly) getting ready for Friday morning departure (my birthday!) for
Gibraltar.