Saturday, April 30, 2011

Road Trips

California was an expanse of limey green swathed with mustard, ‘til I got over the Grapevine. Then it was ... not hideous, not pleasant; just ... benign. It wasn’t my eyes, but my nose that sensed the divergence in the atmosphere: from truck fumes, to earth whipped up by dust devils; from pungent manure, to the glorious honeyed perfume of blossoming orange groves.

I kicked on the cruise control and blew up the freeway; cruising along the "5" under cornflower skies. The Central Valley was the color of toasted whole wheat bread - and about as flat. It was warm, and so dry, my hair stood on end, glued, by the static electricity, to the ceiling of the car.

Around mile 300 I started to see signs of life: at least more life than just the sticky orange bug splats plastered to my windshield. Soon I was in Stockton, my stop for the night on my way to the conference in Clearlake.

Just two weeks ago I was on another such expedition. “Road Trip!” The simple phrase conjures up a wild patchwork of images and thoughts: travel, adventure, new sights – sounds – flavors - experiences. We had our share of these ... plus tedious passages through monotonous stretches of road striped with lanky pines and swamps, entertaining only because of the moronic billboards defiling the way; of spats over speed limits and tunes (when it comes down to rap vs. elevator music – country becomes the common denominator, although it was a treat hearing Dad ‘croon’ to the oldies). We were charmed by southern cities like Charleston and St. Augustine, and dined in pubs, fast-food huts and seafood havens; we sniffed (and snapped off samplings of) the blooms of spring, craned our necks at lighthouses and steeples, shopped for treasures (‘small’ being the optimal feature, in the cramped car) ... hunted for alligators and cheap accommodations; and watched gas prices climb while the trees grew bare -- as we crept steadily north.

Mom and I chatted up vendors at the markets. Coco and I broke into hysterics fashioning fart-y noises, under the high-pressure hand dryers in the rest stops. Dad sang (I will mention that I got inherited my Dad's voice, which is not saying much. At one point Coco asked, 'Who sings that song Opa?' to which he replied, 'Peggy Lee.' 'Let's keep it that way,' she retorted.) At night we pulled into tidy hotels and unloaded everything from the car: luggage, suit bags, coolers, electronics ... One night Mom, tired of carting around a jug with the last two inches of vodka from the Florida house, transferred it into a small bottle of OJ for easier transport. Unknowingly (so he says) Dad drank it for breakfast. “The orange juice was a little zippy,” he remarked. We didn’t let him drive that day ...

Each night we played cards or watched TV until everyone collapsed (except for me – who insisted on wifi and worked well into the early morning on the book). Then we started all over again each after breakfast: rotating through the positions in the car – from front to back, straddling coolers and gear – taking the driver’s seat, or the prime napping location: shotgun. By the time we got to Donna’s (after crossing the expansive Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel) we were eager to stretch our legs, and enjoyed a long weekend of Little League games and Ballet lessons, dog walks, restaurants and pubs, before the final stretch home.

All in all it was a miraculous experience; three generations laughing and loving and exploring the Eastern Seaboard.

Monday, April 4, 2011

On the bright side ...

We are just over 100 miles from our destination -- Cabo. Not quite the intended plan ... but we are making the best of things.
Tops on the list of reasons to head back south:
4) the fishing will only improve
3) our clothes no longer have that 'fresh Mexican laundry smell' (definitely not :-P) so we can take them back to the lavenderia
2) I might actually get to intercept my sister Vicki on her way to La Paz!
and (drumroll please)
1) I sound like a jetsetter, saying 'This is my third visit to Cabo in two weeks;

This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using OCENS.Mail software.
Please be kind and keep your replies short.

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Halfway to Halfway

April 2 - The seas have laid down considerably, enabling us to bump up the rpms a bit and make better spead. We passed the halfway point to our halfway point (Turtle Bay) which is promising (yes, I can do the math & know it's 1/4 of the way, but this sounds so much better ... ) The skies remain gray however -- if it's sunny where you are: we don't want to know!
Our daily excitement continues to be chores, refueling, and fun-with-freeze-dried food & provisions. Scott doctored up his cup-a-noodles with some Spam Lite, which was allegedly very tasty; Angela carved up a perfectly ripe cantelope; I served up some celery sticks schmeared with garlic & chive cream cheese. Yes, this is a gourmet cruise! We are 'fishing' (although the fish seem unaware) and veer towards kelp patties to tempt lurking dorado with our cedar plug. No luck yet.
If someone can tell us whether the tracker is working, that would be great. Also we got wind of (pardon the pun) a weather system north of Turtle Bay in a few days (we expect to arrive Sunday around midnight). Other news from home appreciated.
All well except for me: I have a @#($& cold :-P Greetings from all on YIPPEE - BC

This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using OCENS.Mail software.
Please be kind and keep your replies short.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Approaching Mag Bay

The wonderful things that make YIPPEE so ZIPPEE also make her a slap-happy girl going to weather, so we're making just 5-6k SOG up the coast. The scenery is mostly monochromatic: grey water, grey sky, with promising pocks of blue sky here & there. Last night was extremely foggy and damp; no moon or stars (that we could tell) but some spectacular bursts of bioluminescence in the water, which is always a cheery sight. Hoping we may see some whales* now that we're approaching Mag Bay (*but at a favorable distance!) Boat & crew all doing well. Keel well-greased hahaha.

This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using OCENS.Mail software.
Please be kind and keep your replies short.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Let the layers begin!

March 31 6:30PM
Burning embers edge the cloud bank to port; the rugged peaks of Baja to starboard are draped in rosey gauze. We are traveling north, at last, aboard YIPPEE KAI YAY on our delivery home from the Cabo Race.
As promised we had a good 20k on the nose right out the gate. Sue cheerfully saw us off, but turned back at the frothy arches. Once past Cabo Falso it started to wane and currently we have about 9-10k alas still on the nose. The sea state is lumpy (which has not deterred our sleepers below, however) and we're getting ready for our first night back at sea. Cold, damp, chllly - but all feeling well: including YIPPEE. ~ BC


This e-mail was delivered via satellite phone using OCENS.Mail software.
Please be kind and keep your replies short.

Thursday, March 3, 2011

Serious Fun!

I rearranged the furniture here at the Blue Pelican, my lovely little enclave which is upscale and serene (and gated) but still within walking distance to St Martin Yacht Club and Simpson Bay. Now, with the desk dragged upstairs and abreast the picture window, I can look out at the lurching palms and stormy sea – thankful I declined an extra day of sailing today AND that I hadn’t yet left on my johnnycake expedition (recommended by fellow sailorchicks Kim St. and Karen C.) as the rain has just come howlingin. (Looks like Via & a granola bar for breakfast today.)

My first morning here it poured too (the ocean is now obscured by the driving rain) as I was about to depart ... as soon as the sun broke through I bolted: a nice 20 minute stroll up and down the hill (wow, the rain is pummeling the rooftop in thundering waves of intensity right now). Despite several warnings from friends abroad, the most dangerous thing I’ve experienced during my morning promenade has been the threat of bottomless puddles – and the rattletrap cars that go rushing through, splaying mud everywhere ... (it is raining so hard the drops are ricocheting off the patio like machine gun fire!).

Being on foot is the best way to scout out an area though, and I’ve already discovered a French bakery that transforms into a pizza parlor at night ... an Indian restaurant (Bobbie G & I had curry there last night) ... a deli ... and scores of brilliant bougainvillea with tiny birds flitting about ... plus I’ve met all the parking attendants and security guards along the way (except the one at the top of the hill who is perpetually asleep). But not today: today I am holed up at mi casa transcribing tapes (well I guess the technology is chip-based now ... but ‘transcribing chips’ sounds like I’ve lost my mind to a bag of Doritos), doing some background research, and generally getting ready for the next three days of racing!

I have TOTALLY SCORED on an awesome mix of rides (in fact, I had too many and nearly added today, the Commodore’s Cup thank God I didn’t – to ride on a Class 40 [from South Africa] or a Dufour 40 [from Guadeloupe]) – and am overwhelmed by the wonderful friends and strangers who have hooked me up and/or invited me to sail. I’m reminded again what a small world it is (although a sailor I met in Golfito asked ‘IS IT a small world? Or a big life?’) and how, if everyone stretches their fingers out just a teeny tiny bit and extends themselves a little, we are all connected in a brilliant and delightful way!!

Well the rain has let up – it is still breezy but I’m eager to venture out on my ‘day off’ (it is NOT a beach day :-P ) so ‘best to finish up my SAILING post and head off to find some johnnycakes and fun ...

See my official posting here ; check out the official Heineken Regatta page here and more pix on FB here

~ Betsy

PHOTOS OF MY FLAT @ BLUE PELICAN