Saturday, November 27, 2010

Sunrise over Aca-poo-poo

There are things that tip you off to an arrival, when you're otherwise dead asleep after a mid-night watch. An obvious change in course (that alters the motion of the boat) ... the sound of the main coming down . the purr of the engine coming on (or if you're motoring -a welcome decrease in RPMs) ...

I woke up to a pink Saturday morning as we approached Acapulco: the crimson sun rising through the haze making everything rosy: the first of the fishing fleet quietly peeling lines in the glassy sea. EVerything south of Zihuatanejo is 'virgin territory' for me: I've sailed the Pacific coast from SF to Z-town (and back & forth to Hawaii) and the Atlantic coast from Florianopolis, Brazil to Punta Arenas, Chile - and now have a chance to 'fill in the blanks' on FRC.

Last night was ultra dark, which made the bioluminesence all the more spectacular. Tiny sea creatures winked neon green in our wake,and dolphins shot glow-in-the-dark contrails alngside our hull. When the moon did rise over the distant towering mountains, it was smoldering amber and half-open, like a cat's eye. The night was pensive and mystical and I enjoyed the serenity of the sea. Now we're tied up waiting for the PEMEX dock to open (at 9AM) and perhaps spend a night (or two) in Acapulco.

ADDENDUM: By noon we were leaving Aca-poo-poo: a truly inhospitable place if there ever was one, from price gouging at the fueldocks to the haughty staff at the yacht club. Crumbling buildings and skyscrapers stretch as far as the eye can see: we were glad to go. We're heading direct to Huatulco (or maybe Puerto Angel if we can't get there by nightfall tomorrow): it is steamy and still, so a day at sea - even if we are motorsailing - will be welcome.

Our travels have taken on a relaxed cadence: we are all getting on well, are comfortable, and churning away the miles toward Panama (*extra line handlers are wanted for the canal crossing, if anyone is inclined!). I too am churning away the miles, or as Iris would say 'putting wheels on the pavement' - letting time and distance do their magic. I am about 1,300 miles into my journeys (SD - here) and starting to feel more like myself again ... and have even rediscovered the ability to laugh at myself, and at the present time am writing a sordid sad country song ;-) -- but that will have to wait for another email.

Sending love and blessings from the blue blue sea XOXO Betsy / Mom

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