Sunday, March 17, 2013

Against all conventional wisdom ...

Against all conventional wisdom ... contrary to all the cruising guides, and all the advice one would glean from other cruisers and delivery skippers, who have traversed the Golfo Tehuantepec ‘with one foot on the beach’ so many times, they no doubtably have one leg longer than the other; we decide to “shoot the Peckers” as Paul calls it, and go straight across from Huatulco to Chiapas. Wind forecasts are exceedingly mild for the next week, and the only breeze –  from the south – would theoretically make the isthmus of Tehuantepec a lee shore, he reasons, as we enjoy our ‘last supper’ in town at Las Locuras del Chef; with copious amounts of vino tinto following our shots of tequila, and some incredible ceviche chef Gustavo has fashioned for us: onion and pepper julienned as fine as angel hair, avocado and shrimp so delicately paper thin they are transparent; in a picante marinade that rivets your attention.

 

But perhaps that was the tequila talking ... This morning we awoke, a tad foggy, with a good deal of trepidation, and not just about our decision to dispense with wisdom and decorum and cut straight across. They have not made a passage in four months, Pamela reveals; and with the back and forth to Los Angeles for business and family holidays, have ventured out of the marina only for weekends trips to the bucolic anchorages to the west. A lot needs to be stowed and readied; water tanks topped off; so on; and we spend the morning refilling and refueling and making space in the refrigerator for all the meals we are preparing in advance.

 

As if to bolster our mood and bravado, Pamela cranks on the Black Eyed Peas and makes banana walnut (gluten-free) pancakes. Paul checks for various leaks (engine coolant, propane, etc.). I shoot pictures and write. We decide to leave this evening. Pamela is just this side of concerned, but we all concur she has veto power – which she refuses to exploit. We will know within a few hours of departure whether the forecasts are accurate, and will be prepared to head back if not. But by dawn we will be 60 miles into the gulf and committed to our route ... continuing (hopefully) with a nice westerly breeze, as forecast, which will let us sail and fish ;D) ... or crack off and run.


ETA in Chiapas / Puerto Madero: Tuesday afternoon 19 March.

 

 

 

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