Monday, October 19, 2015

The Constant Company of Dolphins

My first overnight passage on El Gato. Annie and Eric are very safety
conscious and I am pleased – harnesses, tethers, jacklines, beacons,
strobes, AIS, we have it all – particularly as the wind pipes up at
night, as I'm on watch with Annie. She keeps the big cat in line.

For my first night, I do a swing shift (Eric quips, 'Let's not do a
Bob H****') and spend half a watch with each of them, to get
acquainted with the boat and practices. But pre-dawn, with both of
them exhausted, I graduate to my own watch – and observe once again
the sun rising over the bulbous head of Africa. And then I toss out
the fishing lines, make some breakfast, and start the day.

In the dark hours, Eric and I had talked about past experiences,
compared notes, and spoke about the wonders you see when you're at
sea. Brilliant meteor showers. The clarity of the stars. The ocean
terrain; churning with life. Solitude. Bioluminescence. The constant
company of dolphins.

Night turns to day turns to evening, and we press toward Gibraltar. A
friendly pod of pilot whales visits. Annie catches a tuna. But the
wind directions, current and rain squalls do not cooperate, and our
ETA pushes back, so we approach at nightfall.

But the setting is spectacular. The famed Rock of Gibraltar is
shrouded in clouds, illumined with bursts of lightening. Rounding
Punta Europa is dramatic, and we weave our way through scores of
anchored ships and yachts. Finally we dock, with The Rock to our
stern. Dinner. Gin and Tonics. Talk of a job well done, and more to
come. It has been an incredible 'birthday weekend.' Annie has declared
tomorrow – Sunday – a holiday: we will explore.


UPDATE - wifi and computer technicalities have me a bit behind on
posts but all is well. RAINING CATS & DOGs - haven't seen the monkeys
yet - The Rock of Gibraltar is mostly shrouded with clouds. Hoping for
clearing Wed-Thurs, on to Gran Canaria then!

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