Yesterday morning I watched the snow flurry in big fat flakes that tumbled down on the streets of Ushuaia … today I awoke to birds twittering cheerfully in the balmy morning air of Buenos Aires.
How I would have loved to arrive in this cosmopolitan city looking chic and alluring (or at least clean) instead of in the jeans I bought four weeks ago, which hadn’t yet been washed, along with the layers of well-worn thermals and woolens. I am looking a bit savage these days, with broken nails, soiled clothes, work boots, sparse makeup, and my hair wildly unkempt. UGH!
Nov. 5 - I have been living on a moored boat in the scenic anchorage fronting Ushuaia, where I enjoy a spectacular view but also a very splashy RIB ride between the yacht and the dock. Hence my standard attire (two pairs of socks, long johns, jeans, three or four shirts, vest, hat, gloves) is complimented by my red foulie jacket, to ward off the icy spray. Whenever we go to a café or parrilla, I have to find a spot in the corner to strip down to a maneuverable number of layers; then pile them all back on before we head back out.
Besides being most generously free, my accommodations aboard the 37' sailboat are sturdy and humble: sort of ‘floating bachelor pad’ meets ‘automotive shop’ with a dab of ‘grocery store’ thrown in (as the captain is provisioning for his trip to Yendegaia). I’ve been sleeping in the v-berth on a very firm but comfy cushion where I can stretch out beneath an old sleeping bag he unearthed, which I believe belonged to his dog Jack (deceased three years ago) based on the aroma.
The boat has the most awesome heater – in the head (and I can only spend so much time there!) However the shower isn’t set up in the tiny bathroom, but instead in the small ‘pilothouse’ in between the companionway / galley and the cockpit / outside. I have yet to endeavor standing in my birthday suit in this frigid cuddy while providing a full view of my increasing pallor to 1) any occupants of the boat and 2) the entire population of Ushuaia …
Nov. 6 - Despite the hour (2AM), my appearance, and my personal ‘bouquet’ Viviana and Willy greet me warmly at the regional airport and bring me to their home in the north of Buenos Aires. I am once again overwhelmed by the generosity and kindness of strangers … Viviana and her family became friends’ of Holly’s over 40 years ago, in Seal Beach, and fortunately for me these ties have remained strong. They are the most delightful family, with a daughter Mora (23) and son Juan (18) both in college, and three dogs – including a two month old Rottweiler puppy! This has truly been a soft landing: to stay with such a bright, interesting and loving family ;-) If nothing else, this journey has reinforced my priorities: a reminder that appreciating what you already have is just as important as discovering and falling in love with something new.
Much love to you all!
PHOTOS: downtown Ushuaia; local YC and anchorage
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