The Upside Down Summer: Bioluminescent Angels

Jan 25

It smelled at first like green peppers. Then coffee, then fuel … and at last, flowers: a heady scent of jasmine and blossoms that overwhelmed us, emanating from this smoky mysterious coast of Jurassic Park mountains of green and rock.

We anchored in bay in the dark night, guided by coordinates [27 24 01S 48 33 35W] and a light Alain flashed from the terrace of the house; and set about deploying the dinghy, when from the black lagoon a voice called out “Champagne?”

Fabi had swum out to greet her friends and Marie swiftly handed over her duties and jumped in. As soon as SCRAPPY was in the water and secured, JP and I followed suit and soon we were all splashing around in the warm refreshing CLEAN water. The bay was lush with bioluminescence that sparkled in neon bursts with our movements and I made ‘bioluminescent angels’ (like snow angels) in the dark. An unforgettable arrival in an truly unforgettable place: Governador Celso Ramos, Brasil.

PHOTOS: Alain and Fabi’s house (L) just ashore; another view of DOMINO from Alain & Fabi’s home just north of Florianopolis; me on the terrace overlooking the anchorage

Jan 27

This morning I swam to shore, walked along the beach with its gritty sand, then laid on the beach counting my blessings a bit (until the surf came up and reminded me it was time to return) then swam back to DOMINO. It is great to be in a place and with people conducive to an active lifestyle. Boating isn’t always physical – especially power boating – but Marie has been inspiring in her efforts to keep moving. In the casa @ Paraguay we did aerobics in the morning, and once DOMINO was launched, swam in the Rio Paraguay (when the dirty water and unseen nibbly things didn’t get to me too much .. ) At the YC Ascuncion I did my water aerobics routine in the pool and took daily mango-thieving walks along the golf course. Underway we’ve tried to keep hopping, up and down the stairs (and a fair bit of cleaning to keep the upper body in shape :-D) and always, always good eating habits. But this is the most delightful by far!

Today Fabi is taking us into town (we are actually anchored about an hour north) and hopefully I will ascertain what my next move is ... north? south? west? I will know soon – for now, enjoying this Brasilian Paradise!

ADDENDUM: we cruised the cavernous city streets of Florianopolis, sky-high buildings jammed together like matchsticks on the verdant island of Santa Catarina; pausing at the seafood market where we got a feast fit for a king (and queen!) including oysters @ 12 for $2US - so I bought a dozen for each and every one of us!