June of the Jungle

Feb 23

I’m back in No. America, having met June in Puerto Vallarta where we enjoyed some great ‘catch up’ time in the jungle, and am currently at the Paradise Village Resort in Neuvo Vallarta awaiting the arrival of ALLURE!

JUNE OF THE JUNGLE

If you come here don’t arrive at night, as we did: dodging road construction (aka ‘missing chunks of roadway that take you by utter surprise’) in the quaint town of San Pancho, shining flashlights on non-existent street signs, winding through the shadowy landscape, groaning up dirt roads cut in the jungle – with 10’high walls of clay and roots towering over you, skirting dark bottomless precipices echoing the crash of waves, through thick jungle, past prickles of light in the distance, wondering, always wondering, whether we had failed to see the landmark in the dark, whether we’d missed the sharp left, whether we would ever arrive.

‘Well, we didn’t want to stay in a skyscraper in the city …’ I began and June cut me off: ‘There’s no WE in this! YOU wanted to stay in a treehouse in the jungle!’ and we burst into laughter.

So we arrived, at last, at Tailwind Jungle Lodge, parked the car, read the welcoming note taped to the large wooden doors, and faced the stairs. Many stairs. A multitude of stairs. A cascade of stairs carved in the floor of the tropical forest: rocky, dirt and gravel stairs, leading ever-downward, dodging gigantic palms fronds that flapped in the breeze, and along a path to our home for the next three days.

‘I thought I rented a place with walls,’ I mused, but here it was: a 30’ X 30’ platform jutting into a bottomless ravine amongst the trees; a neat canvas tent with two comfortable beds draped with mosquito netting; leather and rattan table and chairs; a few wooden chests; and a refrigerator strapped shut against skillful foraging animals.

It was an uneventful night and we slept soundly, fueled by a bit of wine and a late night of chatting and laughter. No furry creatures came to visit us in the night (that we know of) and the mosquitoes were kept at bay. Rarely have I been so eager to crawl out of bed in the morning and start writing, but as soon as the dappled light found its way to my bed I was up.

There is an unparalleled beauty in being immersed in nature, as opposed to a mere spectator, and I found the environment both peaceful and inspiring: surrounded by so much greenery; the rustling of the leaves that crescendo and decrescendo with the ocean breeze, and muffle the roar of the waves below; the clatter in the undergrowth of tajones, squirrels, birds and lizards, unseen beneath the dense foliage.

We were enjoying breakfast on our deck amidst this spectacular panorama, when Judy came to get us. It seems the relentless stairs were mere preparation for the hike Judy had in store for us that morning. Our three hour trek took us up and down ridges, around the property, down to the Playa de los Muertes, back up a ridge over boulders thrashed with waves and foam, back down to the private beach, and up, up, up again to the top of the property, with Judy remarking at one landing that we had ‘just 99 more stairs to go’.

It was a great opportunity to stretch my legs after so many days at sea, but more so to see Tailwind and get to know more about the truly lovely family that preserved this parcel and created this natural wonderland get away. Our stay was capped with a casual potluck with Judy, Tiger and Tamara’s family, friends and other guests, a warm, intelligent, fun array of people of all ages and backgrounds, and we had a tremendous time. I will write more about this adventure in a story to be published soon – but for now I can say I heartily recommend a visit here.

Now for something completely different June has us staying at the resort, with A/C, hot showers, flush toilet, big comfy beds and no threat of fuzzy ring-tailed creatures scattering our belongings at night. We’re awaiting ALLURE”s arrival on the San Diego to PV Race – the beers are cold, the limes are cut, and tequila ready! We’ll be here in PV through Sunday and then head north to Cabo by sail. More soon, love to you all ~ Betsy

Tomorrows

Feb 20

Tomorrow, Sunday Feb 21, having re-entered ‘my’ hemisphere and ‘my’ (Pacific) ocean, I return to ‘my’ continent when I land in the lovely city of Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. This has been the most extraordinary time of adventure and experience, and I have absorbed so much scenery and wonder that my mind can’t quite process the people/places/things I’ve encountered since I left home five and a half months ago. But I can say that I am wildly happy with my travels, blessed with good health and good fortune, thankful for the warmth and hospitality of friends and strangers alike, and in complete awe of the majesty of this universe. It puzzles me so when people tell me they ‘don’t believe in God’ -- as if this all is some big mutant accident – when I so keenly see the works of his hand with every breath I take.

Last night  -- after a lazy day anchored at Salardup -- where we swam, snorkeled, and played bocci ball with a few other cruisers – we put down just off Carti; dangerously close to the no-see-um infested mangroves, if not for the 25-35k winds gusting through. As is customary, it rained in the middle of the night and we jumped up to slam the hatches shut, but thankfully the wind didn’t crap out entirely and leave us victim to the ravenous insects. I slept fitfully. George was up early making coffee like the god-like creature he is (and Melinda got up to join us for a final cup) before dinking me over to the dock to catch a 6:30AM truck to the city. I scored and got a shotgun seat in a pickup truck driven by a gal named Marie who is a mother of three, which probably explains why she drove the three-hour journey to Panama City like a somewhat sensible homo sapien, up and down and over and around the perilous mountain pass, through the river, skirting slides and crumbling patches of road, dogs and horses, into the grimy city. As if to prove a point: Marie had a carton of eggs (breakfast for her children) perched on the seat in between us (three guys sat in the back and another two in the bed of the pickup, with our luggage) –– which remained completely intact for the entire ride. It was fun and entertaining, especially as Marie and I got non-stop whistles and catcalls from the many many workers endeavoring to put the road back together after the recent rains and slides (Humpty Dumpty comes to mind). I guess they don’t get many gringas around here, as I surely was not 1) dolled up, 2) scantily clad (I was lucky to b e wearing semi-clean clothes!), nor 3) young and adorable – but we apparently got the boys’ testosterone boiling early this morning.

This leg of my trip was pure unadulterated vacation. Photos will follow, but in summary: we swam and snorkeled every day: several times. We hiked. Played bocci ball and monkey golf on tiny tropical islands with a beer in one hand and a ball in the other. Laid in the fine white sand. Played water tag. Fished. BBQd. Had frou-frou drinks at multiple Happy Hours ... and pancakes for breakfast … and DESSERT. Shopped (well … Kuna-style shopping for molas ). Met new friends.  Sang … LOUDLY. Danced. Jumped off high things (rocks, the boat) in to cool clean water. Slept in late. Watched Gilligans Island on dvd. Laughed. Talked about old times … and made plans for the future. It was an awesome magic amazing time in a gorgeous setting with idyllic weather on a fantastically comfortable boat with wonderful friends. In case you are not getting the message: I had a great time!!

And now, I’m on the homestretch; to meet up with friends in Puerto Vallarta for some fun and some work; and -- fantastic news -- Coco will join me in a week and do the cushy/warm part of the delivery home (PV to Cabo San Lucas, while I continue on the boat up to Los Angeles).

I wish I could say I was closer to knowing what ‘tomorrow’ will bring … WHERE I’m going to live and WHAT I’m going to do in the long run. But I’m not. However I still have about 1,000 miles at sea ahead of me and plenty of time to ponder that next step...

More from PV in a few days: but first – the eco lodge north of the city (and probably 9-million mosquitoes) beckon ….

XO

 

Thunderheads and coral heads

Feb 18

My mind spins to recall the myriad of experiences of the last five months: thunderheads to coral heads; penguins to toucans; glacial cold to tropical heat; calms to tormentas … I think I have seen it all!

Today though -- something different! We took the dinghy to the mouth of the River Sidra to meet up with Lisa: a local Kuna, to take us into the rainforest on a hike to the waterfalls. We went up and down muddy trails, forged streams, hiked through jungles and graveyards, to the waterfall, where we swam in the cool fresh water, with little fish nibbling at our legs. Then, we decided to hike back via the river bed, wading on slippery rocks, over more waterfalls, and even plunging off rocks into the river at heights that made my heart beat at the speed of sound; then traipsed back to the bay where we’d left the dink; zipping back to our one-horse-anchorage amidst waves and laughter.

No-one had claimed George’s favorite shallow anchorage at Salardup (despite the hour) so we snuck close to the picture-perfect island into the turquoise water: then jumped in to snorkel the cool shallows of this tiny isle. We flipped over sea stars and had conch races and poked sea cucumbers and chased fish until the sun was low, then climbed back aboard to BBQ some chicken and pinapple kabobs. It’s hardly 9:30 pm but we’re exhausted from our six-hour hike and two hour swim (and maybe the rum & Coca light has something to do with that) … yet blissfully happy at yet ANOTHER fantastic day in Kuna Yala.

It has been non-stop fun since I arrived last week! What an amazing time I’ve been having with Melinda, George and Josh; swimming and snorkeling every day; bbqs, happy hours, fishing, fun J  Once again I have fallen into the loving hands of dear and wonderful friends and I feel so BLESSED!! (And tan and happy too :-D )

Saturday I return to the mainland … Sunday I fly to Mexico … I am ‘working my way ‘home’ and expect to be in So Cal by mid- to late- March.

Sending you all love and warmest wishes ‘til I return and can hand them over in person!  XO Betsy-Mom

PHOTOS: Melinda, Reylyn and me at Happy Hour at BBQ Island; selecting molas from a local Kuna family; Melinda, George and Josh; SOUTHERN BELLE at anchor; a typical anchorage in the San Blas Islands.

Kuna Yala

Feb 13

So quickly do people and experiences become fond things of the past, as you are thrust into the future!

I left Piriapolis, Uruguay Thursday: just 28 hours after arriving aboard Josephine; bound for Southern Belle in the San Blas Islands.

Staying in Panama City, I did a massive grocery shopping trip for Melinda, George and Josh in the early morning, then awaited my 'transport' from the hotel. I'm not sure what I was expecting: certainly not the beat up white SUV already stacked and loaded with luggage and packed with eight passengers. The driver surveyed my mountain of groceries and bags, and began heaping suitcases ever-higher on the roof, then distributing the sacks that wouldn't fit in the trunk amidst the feet and few wasted spaces surrounding the others and I.

Then began a trip through first the grimy but approachable city of Panama; past the tidal flats and rocks of the Pacific; along highways and then rugged streets … where we picked up yet another passenger. Continuing on, we detoured a final time, where one of the men stopped at home (he must be extremely viral as it was absolutely TEAMING with small children) to pick up even more plastic bags of stuff. At last, stuffed to the gills, the car began its journey over the mountains and across the narrow isthmus to the Atlantic side.

We went increasingly higher, on winding roads freshly cut into recent mud- and landslides, and even at one spot waited an hour while teams of men with bull dozers and steamrollers re-tarred and graveled the narrow twisting road. Underway again, the truck sped (now 'late') along muddy and rutted roads slick with rubble and skree, rimmed with giant leafy plants that disappeared down ominous grades; knowing that one bad skid would shoot you off the edge and you'd become one of those CNN reports … but hopeful that the cram of luggage, groceries and warm bodies might be like 'airbags' and protect us in a fall.

And then, we drove through the river.

The road ended and the driver looked left and right across a 20-meter flow of muddy water. He inched us midstream and took a stab left, then backed up, and drove right with the current, then cut across to shore and were back on our way. Straining over the mountains (I'm surprised when the car stalled, that he didn't ask us to get out and push) we came over the other side - where finally, after four hours, under sunny skies, we arrived in Carti in Kuna Yala ('Land of the Kuna' - 'San Blas Islands' being the Western Name) where SOUTHERN BELLE was beautifully anchored and awaiting amidst button-sized islands of lanky palm trees and sandy beaches. Heaven!

After a lovely night of catching up (we last saw each other on the Baja HaHa Nov. 2006) we're now (Sat AM) at the Western Lemon Islands: Melinda is fixing breakfast while George runs the ham net, Josh (9) is swinging like a monkey on a rope off the rig. I'm sending this via SailMail so might not report again 'til I return ashore next week. Just know please we are all safe and HAPPY and enjoying this piece of paradise!!

Love & blessings to all ~ Betsy

Addendum: After swimming around the boat this morning we moved to a proper dive site called "Dog Island" to snorkel the wreck of a old boat. I cannot quickly describe the myriad of beautiful corals and fish: suffice it to say it is GORGEOUS here and I am going to go snorkeling again soon!

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Wake me when we get to Piri ...

I now have the record for both the fastest passage between Punta del Este and Florianopolis (40 hours – DOMINO) and the slowest (7 days 7 hours – JOSEPHINE) (… okay maybe I'm exaggerating ... )

We arrived safe and sound last night in Piriapolis actually (and that 20-some miles from PdE to Piri took FOREVER) after an amazingly diverse trip. Too much wind, or none at all … and nearly always from the wrong direction. Lightening storms and brilliant sunsets and dark nights and laughter and squalls and calm. One highlight – just after the pompero, having to put down our dinner plates of mahi mahi I caught to circle a pod of sperm whales rafted up as they were being attacked by orcas. Ah … just another day on the ocean.


More to come but know that I have in this time spent many hours thinking of everyone I love and wonderful times past and memories to be made. Tomorrow (fingers crossed – but maybe not til Friday?) I fly to Panama and start to work my way home. HOME!

Til then much love xo Betsy

UPDATE: Feb 11 in Lima Peru enroute to Panama, offline until Feb 21? ish?

click on the photo for a link to my FB pix