One-hundred eyes ...

Hundreds of eyes were watching us - or so we felt: their gazes burning through the bushes and peering from beneath the mangroves and branches overhead, as we meandered up the slinky Rio Cacique on Isla del Rey (about 60nm offshore / south of Panama City). We didn't see a thing - other than the tail-feathers of fleeing birds and the tell-tale splashes of unseen inhabitants of the muddy river. After motoring upstream as far as possible, we killed the outboard and drifted (with the occasional paddle stroke) back towards the bahia: listening to bird calls, splashes, and the frequent SNAP and POP of twigs ashore - but saw little. It was eerie! We returned through a small passage in the rolling surf (with waves breaking to starboard, and crashing on rocks to port) and back to FRC - which was lurching at anchor. The tides vary up to 20 feet here and with tonight's full moon, they were running fast!

It has been exotic and unusual sailing in this environment: California is dry, and Baja is outright barren. But here, especially at night, the rich smells of the jungle travel to sea: thick and dank, verdant and earthy - feeding the imagination and sparking a longing to explore. I'd love to stay and investigate every inch of every island, but our mad dash to the canal continues ... Tomorrow we'll move from our anchorage at Bahia Cacique to Isla Caňas - a petite island with sandy beaches, and reefs for snorkeling, on what will be my last (hopefully sunny!) day cruising. Then it's off to Balboa (in the Canal zone) late Monday night, to clear into Panama Tuesday, wrap up some chores and sightseeing Wednesday, and fly out in the wee early hours of Thursday. I've enjoyed this 2,900nm (ish?) voyage, but now am eager for a heavy dose of Christmas, family & friends!

Well the chicken wings are on the barbie so .. signing off for now; more from P.C. XOXO Mom / Betsy

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