Sea-Saw

RIGHT OUT THE GATE the seas foretold what was to come: leaving Marina Chahue's slender rock-framed channel, the seas were rollin'. We seesawed out into the bay and turned left on a northeast track toward the apex of Bahia Tehuantepec. Everything was stowed, battened down, lunch and dinner made - so I napped ... until the seas were so steep I was airborne in my bunk and sleep was no longer an option. The autohelm was on, so I relieved it - hoping by hand I could avoid the worst of the 'slammers'.

The wind was still negligible. We were hugging the coast, in the lee of the point, hiding from the big wind: t we could see it coming. White horses romped in the dark blue seas to starboard, and kept getting closer .. it was as if we were on the on-ramp for the Windy Freeway: with the median between FRC and the windline growing narrower every minute. Within half an hour the wind was 20k and building. It as exciting to helm (and wet); the anemometer racking up the windspeed as we tacked in and out of the bays to avoid the worst of it, until we got around the point and could avoid it no longer. We were in the thick of it - the Tehuantepeccers - where the tremendous mountains fade to lowlands at the middle of the isthmus, and let the stiff cold breezes of North America blast through.

Hours later the excitement had worn off: living on your ear (the wind just skimmed 40k), rocking and slamming through the dark night, isn't much fun. But it was tolerable. As is common practice crossing the BofT, you hug the shore ("one foot on the beach") so the blustery weather doesn't have as much chance to build up big wind waves. It adds miles, and concern about hitting land, buoys, unmarked rocks or other traffic ... but we kept good watch all night and everything was fine.

1-3AM the night was moonless, dark; the stars dimmed by the perpetual haze - but a-plenty. I realized my confusion in finding familiar celestial friends: we were travewling east! Now, as a California Girl, I have sailed south, southwest, south-southeast, and even north (when it's time to take the boat home) but rarely do e sail east in California! (the desert gets in the way). The wind vacillated from 12-38 at whim, and the sails went up - down - in - out accordingly. The seas are willy-nilly - just all over the place and short set. There is not rhyme or reason to their patterns, in this vast fishless sea (no, we haven't caught anything lately!!).

Later, after the sun had risen, I admired the magnificent coast with its layer upon layer of mountains; conical shapes, spires, crags, notched peaks: towering high - boasting the miracle of creation. Clouds hug the highest summits: it is thrilling to think the Atlantic is just over the other side!!!

It is now 1030AM Saturday - and naptime. Over & out xoxo Betsy-Mom

** I LIED - WE JUST CAUGHT A BIG MAHI! woo hoo! We cross into Guatemalan waters tonight **

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