A palapa in Chacala ( …and the ongoing adventures of June of the Jungle)
How wonderful to awake at anchor in the morning: the breeze sweeping through the boat; gentle (now familiar) creaking and noises punctuating a background of breaking waves; slices of sunlight finding their way in to your bunk. There’s a patter of steps on deck; someone’s got the coffee on; the day promises nothing but sunshine and fun.
We are currently in Chacala, along the Riviera Nayarit coast of Mexico ( Google Earth us: 21’09.820N 105’13.763W) en route from Puerto Vallarta to Los Angeles, Calif. (with planned stops on the way north) enjoying a lay day in this tiny fishing village. It spans nary six blocks wide and three deep: set on a steep jungle mountain and footed by several palapas on the sandy bay.
“We” includes Coco, June, Chewey, Crissy, Steve and me: a motley and abstract crew delivering the boat home after the yacht race and related parties at Marina Vallarta. We left PV March 1 at noon, after a swift provisioning trip and other prep. Our first day was a short one: a quick stop in La Cruz for fuel and then to Punta Mita, where we anchored in ample time for a satisfying dinner and Tuesday we set out at a sane hour (9AM boat time – seeing we are straddling the Nayarit/Jalisco border, we haven’t really determined which time zone to honor, so we are scheduling our days based on whim and sunshine). The sky was blue and temperature perfect as we motor sailed along the lush mountainous coast. June and I tried to figure out which cove was the scene of our jungle-glamping adventure at Tailwind but were stymied: the entire coast is stretched with verdant rainforest cascading down to snippets of sandy beach: which piece of paradise was ours?
We tucked inside the rocky island off Jaltemba to take a look at this small touristy town set on a wide grin of sandy beach. Shortly after we veered away, and June spotted something splashing in the distance ... we went to investigate and discovered an enthusiastic Humpback calf (accompanied by mom) who leaped repeatedly – endlessly – out of the water as they made their way north. We lingered (at a respectful distance) for nearly an hour until a small panga with tourists – bearing bright orange PFDs horseshoed around their necks – appeared, Soon after, the humpbacks – chased off, or finally tired -- disappeared as suddenly as they appeared.
We arrived in Chacala early (2:00? or was it 3:00?), and anchored and once the boat was secured, all jumped in for a swim! The water was the perfect temperature, blue green and clean – as the bay is open to the ocean and the water constantly flushed. We played for a while before attempting to re-board… the dinghy had been deployed but few of us could gracefully hoist ourselves on. Instead Steve hung a knotted rope from the transom and we hauled ourselves up for showers and dinner.
It took two trips to get us all to shore dry(ish) We landed at the small dinghy beach near the concrete pier where the pangas launch, on the north side of the bay. A footpath leads along the rocks and beach to the restaurant palapas, but seeing it was still daylight we took the road, enjoying a short walk along the cobblestone streets. Despite the hour, and an utter lack of other ‘tourists’, the gift shops were open and wares on display, making for a colorful stroll.
Now it’s Wednesday morning (and I’m racing my battery to see whether it runs out of juice before I run out of words) … Steve has made pancakes for everyone (at one point asking us all to shift to starboard so the stove doesn’t gimbal and the batter run all over …. ‘pancake ballast’) and we’re contemplating the rest of the day: swimming, rowing, a visit to shore for a few more provisions (beer and ginger top the list), a photography excursion, dinner at another palapa on the beach … generally more fun, before we set out tomorrow for either 1) San Blas or 2) Mazatlan (we haven’t decided yet).
All are well (certainly well-fed!) happy and healthy. More manana ;-) XOXO Betsy
PS – C’mon in – the water’s fine! After a great, long swim (and monkeying it up the transom) Coco and I napped on the cabin top, listening (and occasionally singing) to our favorite songs, holding hands – happiness indeed!
PPS - Friday March 5 Update -- arrived in Mazatlan this morning; at El Cid Marina for two nights (at least ... checking on weather for the passage to Cabo & north ... )
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